How to Store an Ice Maker for the Season
A simple end-of-season routine to deep clean, drain, and dry your ice maker so it does not greet you with a musty smell next summer.
Key takeaways
- Leftover water, not the plastic, is what makes a stored ice maker smell musty.
- Deep clean and descale before storage, not after you unpack it.
- Drain the reservoir and lines fully, then air dry the inside for a full day.
- Always remove the water filter and never store it damp inside a closed machine.
- Prop the lid open and store the unit upright in a dry, freeze-safe spot.
The first time I put an ice maker away for winter, I did it the lazy way. I dumped the ice bin, wiped the outside, and slid the machine into a closet still half full of water. Six months later I pulled it out, ran a batch, and the ice smelled like a gym bag. That one shortcut cost me two evenings of scrubbing.
If you want to store an ice maker for the season without that unpleasant reunion, the whole trick comes down to one idea: get every drop of water out and keep the inside breathing. A machine that goes into a box wet is a machine that comes out smelling.
Here is the routine I use now on my GE Profile Opal and a Frigidaire EFIC237 that lives at our lake house for exactly this reason. It takes about an hour of hands-on time, most of which is just waiting for parts to dry.
Why moisture is the whole problem
An ice maker is a warm, dark, plastic box that holds standing water. Leave a few ounces in the reservoir, tuck it somewhere with no airflow, and you have built a small greenhouse for mold and that sour biofilm people call pink slime.
The smell you meet when you unpack a stored machine is not the plastic. It is what grew in the leftover water while you were not looking. Countertop makers like the Newair, Silonn, and Euhomy models hold anywhere from 40 to 80 ounces in the tank, and even a shot glass of forgotten water is enough to seed a problem.
Nugget machines are the fussiest here. The Opal chews ice into soft, wet nuggets, which means its internals stay damper than a clear-cube maker. If you own one, do not skip the drying steps.
Step 1: Deep clean before you store, not after
Cleaning a machine you are about to hide feels backwards, but this is the step that saves you. You want to store it clean and dry, so any gunk gets removed now while the machine is warm and easy to work on.
Run a full descale and sanitize cycle first. If you are not sure of the process, my full step-by-step guide to cleaning an ice maker walks through it, and if you prefer a pantry fix over a store-bought solution, the vinegar descaling method works fine for most machines.
- Empty the ice bin and any leftover water completely.
- Mix a cleaning solution (a 1:10 vinegar-to-water ratio, or a manufacturer cleaner) and run it through a full cycle.
- Follow with two or three plain-water cycles so no cleaner taste lingers next season.
- Wipe the bin, the scoop shelf, and any nozzles you can reach with a soft cloth.
Skip the bleach. It is aggressive on the food-grade plastic and gaskets inside these machines, and the residual smell can hang around for weeks. Vinegar or a cleaner made for ice makers is plenty.

Step 2: Drain every last drop
This is where most people leave water behind. Tipping the machine over the sink gets the obvious water, but reservoirs have low pockets and drain lines that hold an ounce or two you cannot see.
Find the drain plug. On the Opal it is a rubber cap on the underside; on most Frigidaire and Igloo portables it is a screw-out plug at the back or bottom. Pull it, tip the machine several directions over the sink, and let it sit draining for a few minutes. I go into more detail on the stubborn spots in this rundown on how to drain an ice maker completely.
- Reservoir tank emptied and tipped both ways
- Drain plug pulled and left open to air
- Ice bin bone dry, not just poured out
- Any visible water in the evaporator or nugget auger wiped away
Step 3: Remove and dry the filter
The water filter is the single most likely thing to ruin a stored machine. It is a wet sponge by design, so if you leave it in place and box everything up, it becomes the source of the smell you will fight later.
Pull the filter out. If it is near the end of its life anyway, throw it away and start next season fresh; our guide on when to replace your ice maker water filter covers the timing. If it still has life, set it somewhere dry and airy, or seal it in a bag in the fridge. Never store it damp inside the closed machine.
Step 4: Dry the inside for real
Draining gets the water out. Drying gets the film out. After the machine sits empty for an hour, wipe every surface you can reach with a clean microfiber cloth, then let it air out with the lid up for a full day before packing.
I usually leave mine open overnight on the counter. In humid climates, a small fan pointed into the bin speeds this up and gets into the corners a towel misses. Preventing that residual dampness is the same battle covered in our piece on how to prevent mold and smell in your ice maker, and it all starts with a truly dry interior.
Toss a food-safe silica gel packet or two into the bin before you close it up. They pull the last bit of ambient moisture and cost almost nothing. Just do not let them sit against a wet surface where they dissolve into a mess.
Step 5: Prop the lid and store it upright
A closed lid on a machine that is not perfectly dry traps whatever moisture is left. So even after drying, I wedge the lid open a crack with a folded paper towel or a wine cork. Airflow is your friend for the entire storage stretch.
Store the unit upright, the way it runs. Laying it on its side or back can shift the compressor oil in models that have a sealed refrigeration system, like the Opal, and you are supposed to let those stand upright for 24 hours before running them again anyway. Upright storage skips that worry.
A dry machine with the lid cracked open will keep for years. A wet one with the lid shut will turn on you in a single season.
Where you store it matters
The spot does as much work as the prep. You want dry, stable temperature, and no pests.
| Location | What to watch for | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Indoor closet | Nothing, if it is dry | Best choice |
| Heated basement | Humidity; use a silica packet | Good |
| Garage | Freezing temps can crack plastic; dust | Okay if insulated |
| RV or lake house | Freeze risk, mice chewing lines | Drain fully, seal openings |
| Unheated shed | Freeze, damp, critters | Avoid |
The original box is ideal if you kept it, since the foam holds the machine upright and off any damp floor. If the box is long gone, a clean towel underneath and a loose sheet over the top keeps dust out without sealing moisture in.
The one mistake almost everyone makes
The single most common error is confusing empty with dry. People pour out the bin, feel satisfied, and pack a machine that still has water pooled in the reservoir and a soaked filter inside. Empty is a starting point. Dry is the goal.
The runner-up mistake is storing it in a freezing garage with water still in the lines. Water expands as it freezes, and a cracked reservoir or split pump is an expensive way to learn this. If freezing is even possible where you store it, drain obsessively and check with a flashlight for hidden water.
Waking it up next season
Bringing a well-stored machine back is easy. Reinstall a fresh filter, wipe out any dust, and run one full cleaning cycle before you trust the first batch of ice. Even a spotless machine benefits from a rinse cycle after months of sitting.
If you did the prep right, that first batch will taste clean. If you notice any off flavor, do not panic; a repeat cycle usually clears it, and using clean water helps too. The CDC has a plain explainer on keeping drinking water safe that is worth a skim if you rely on well or lake water at a seasonal place.
Making the call
Storing an ice maker well is not complicated, but it is unforgiving of shortcuts. Deep clean, drain until nothing drips, pull and dry the filter, air the inside out, crack the lid, and stand it upright somewhere dry. That is the entire job.
Do it once with intention and you buy yourself a machine that smells like nothing next season instead of a weekend of scrubbing. My gym-bag ice taught me the hard way so you do not have to. Spend the extra hour now, and future you will thank you the first hot afternoon you fill a glass.
Frequently asked questions
A properly cleaned, drained, and dried machine can sit for a year or more with no issue. The limiting factor is moisture, not time. If you got every drop of water out and left the lid cracked for airflow, storage length is not a real concern.
Yes, always pull the filter out. A filter is a damp sponge by design and is the most likely part to grow mold and cause odor in storage. Dry it and bag it, or replace it fresh when you restart the machine next season.
Only if you have drained it completely, including the pump and lines. Any water left inside can freeze, expand, and crack the reservoir or split the pump. If you cannot guarantee it is bone dry, keep it somewhere that stays above freezing.
It almost always comes from water that was left inside when you packed it away. Mold and biofilm grow in that trapped moisture over the months. Running a full cleaning cycle when you unpack it usually clears the smell within a batch or two.
No, store it upright the way it runs. Laying a nugget maker like the Opal on its side can shift the compressor oil in the sealed cooling system. If it does get tipped, stand it upright for 24 hours before you power it on.
Even a few weeks with standing water can start biofilm growth, especially in a warm room. If it will sit unused for more than a few days, it is worth draining and drying it. For longer gaps, do the full storage routine.
